The uniqueness of these ocean conditions gives square waves their uncommon, geometric appearance. The most consistent square waves form where persistent swells collide with incoming swells at an opposing angle. Refraction can make swells temporarily square before crashing. Refraction – Waves change direction when entering shallower water.Ocean Floors – Square waves sometimes form over shallow shelves or steep drop-offs which affect how swells propagate.Currents – When swells meet a rip or areas of shifting currents like eddies, the wave shape morphs in response.Wind Resistance – Strong onshore or offshore winds blowing against wave direction straighten crests perpendicular to the wind flow.When swells pass perpendicularly through a strong opposing current, the crest can be pushed into a straighter alignment, forming a squarer face. As waves travel through the water, changes in direction or speed alter the orientation of the wave crests. Square waves arise primarily due to how swells interact with different ocean currents and wind conditions. They normally (but not always) form when two different oceans meet.Īs the two swells converge, they interact with one another – hitting at right angles, resulting in the unusual square pattern we see from land. I hope that with this information you can learn more about square waves, their characteristics and risks.Square waves are a fairly rare ocean phenomenon caused by two swells colliding at right angles to each other. Shallow square waves are safer because they carry less current. ![]() ![]() It's also possible that you've seen square waves near the shore and just didn't know it. In these places, tourists often fly drones over the sea or climb into lighthouses to get a bird's-eye view of the waves. You can also see these square waves in Tel Aviv and Lisbon in Portugal. There are news and articles that claim that this small island of France is the only place where it crosses the ocean, however, this is completely false. If you want to witness these waves, you should first view the log to see when they are most likely to happen. Nevertheless, you can't expect to see a square wave 100% of the time. The most famous place where these waves can be seen is the Ile de Ré. Since these specific waves are the result of wave refraction and diffraction, they mostly occur in coastal areas or within small bays. But surprisingly, several people still went to witness the rare event. Square waves are the kind of waves you don't want to encounter when swimming or surfing. If you're already inside it is best to swim to shore as soon as possible. Therefore, lifeguards advise against entering the water to prevent this behavior. In short, bathers and boaters do not fear these accidents for themselves, but for the possibility of being trapped in a patterned box. Mainly in transoceanic conditions, or just after transoceanic, “when the waves and the sea breeze are almost aligned”. ![]() "Two wave trains with similar wavelengths but crossing in different directions (cross seas) create an interference pattern that results in unusually high waves."Īccording to the study, the rate at which many ship accidents occur in the oceans is undergoing rapid temporal changes. We will start by quoting an excerpt from the book “The Science of Waves: Ripples, Tsunamis, and Stormy Oceans”: A 2004 study by Toffoli, collecting a series of data from Lloyds Marine Information Services between 19, revealed that a large percentage of ship accidents were caused by square waves. When weather conditions allow the phenomenon to persist longer, squares can be seen over the sea, but when this happens ships can get trapped. In this sense, experts have warned of its dangers and advised that if you see this phenomenon, it is best to avoid being in the sea at the time of the event to avoid an accident. In the case of the Ile de Ré, several boats have been reported trapped by these currents, however, there have been incidents in other parts of the world due to the “square sea”, for which the authorities have issued an alert. When this phenomenon occurs, it attracts thousands of spectators due to its fascinating sight, however, experts warn that these waves are actually currents of water, so they can be dangerous for any boat or person in the water. Although the square waves are beautiful, they are also quite dangerous, it is recommended not to swim in those places. Curiously, many people head to the island's lighthouse, built in 1854, to observe this incredible phenomenon. These peculiar and rare waves are formed by the collision of two deep oceans thousands of meters deep, and other factors such as the wind cause the waves to travel so far that the surface of the sea looks strange.Īs a result, these impacts form a diamond or square pattern that makes Ré one of the most incredible places in the world. ![]() They are normal waves that form a grid on the sea as if it were a chessboard.
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